Not every traveler loves the intensity and roughness of Varanasi, but regardless, it’s difficult not to find this 3,800-year-old city fascinating. Religious ceremonies, endless temples, open cremations, narrow lanes winding through ancient markets, crumbling palaces, people praying and bathing in the holy Ganges River, animals roaming the streets — it’s all in this one destination.
Apart from the usual sights and experiences, however, there is one tiny room located down a lane in the Bengali Tola area of the Old City that I always get excited to enter. This is the Jolly Music House, run by the always-friendly Jolly, a middle-aged man and talented musician who offers courses and lessons on all types of traditional Indian instruments. But if you ask him, he’ll also organize a concert in the evening. The experience will leave you mesmerized and wanting to return every night you’re in this city. Tell him Earl sent you!
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